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Wednesday 10 August 2011

10 of the biggest performance makeup mistakes and how to correct them

This is my list of Top 10 Performance Makeup Mistakes in no particular order.

1) MISTAKE: Your Eyebrows are gone! WHY? Eyebrows show the emotional expression of the face. Lose your eyebrows, lose expression.

FIX IT: Use a pressed mineral eye shadow powder in a color that matches or is slightly darker than your own haircolor with an angled eyeliner makeup brush to fill in the natural shape of the eyebrows. This will enhance and frame the eyes more naturally than with an eyebrow pencil.

2) MISTAKE: Black pencil eyeliner on the inside of the lower lash line. WHY? On stage, it makes the eyes look smaller. This is a great makeup technique for TV, fashion shows, print ads, and in person but not for stage performances.

FIX IT: Use a WHITE Highlighter Pencil on the inside lower lash line and on the outside corner of the eyes to brighten the eyes and make them look bigger.

3) MISTAKE: Black liner under eye and too far in to the inner corner. WHY? It gives the eye a very rounded shape (we want a more almond shape) and can sometimes give the appearance of the dancer being “cross-eyed”.

FIX IT: In order to achieve the more desirable shape use a darker brown eye shadow with an eyeliner brush as a liner under the eye. Start under the pupil and brush out following the natural curve of the eye. Do NOT join the upper lash liner and the lower lash liner. Not connecting these lines will give you the illusion that the whites of the eyes are very large.

4) MISTAKE: The darkest eye shadow contour color that is too close to the nose and too high on the crease of the eye (up to the eyebrows). WHY? It takes all of the emotion out of the eyes. It gives the look of big black holes. For the same reason the “Smokey-eyed look” does NOT work on stage performances.

FIX IT: Make sure contour color does not go so high up that it collides with the eyebrows. Use an eye shadow brush that is small and angled to add darker contour color to crease area focusing on the outer half of the eye and avoid bringing dark color too far in towards the nose.

5) MISTAKE: Not wearing foundation for stage performances. WHY? Wearing makeup without a foundation looks spotty and blotchy when you get sweaty also when doing a quick touch-up.

FIX IT: Creating a clean, matte surface for the makeup requires foundation. When choosing a foundation use a lightweight, mineral oil free/non-comedogenic, water resistant foundation. This will keep makeup looking smooth and clean all day long!

6) MISTAKE: Wearing false lashes that are either too big or too thick. WHY? Since stage lighting come down from the top, large lashes form a shadow under the eyes. This can make your eyes look closed, sleepy, or heavy.

FIX IT: If the lashes are a demi/half lash then they will not need to trimmed to fit the eye otherwise trim them to fit. Always trim from the outside edge. False lashes that are longer on the outer edge and get shorter as they go towards the inner eye are the best choice. Avoid oversized lashes and choose ones that concentrate on the outer third of the eye.

7) MISTAKE: Incorrect makeup colors used for stage makeup. WHY? Just because we see a look on TV, does not mean that it will work for stage. When makeup is done for TV, colors can match costumes, be more subtle and more “fashionable” in style. For stage, our main purpose is to make sure the facial features can be seen and the dancer looks beautiful under intense stage lighting.

FIX IT: Stick to neutral, earth tones that bring out the natural beauty in the dancers face. BTW: there are neutral red and rose-toned lipsticks that look gorgeous. Brighter isn’t better! If the audience is distracted from the performance by bright, glaring red lipstick, then it has defeated its purpose.

MISTAKE: Going overboard with the blush/sharp line for blush. WHY? Doing this makes the dancers face look older.

FIX IT: Neutral rose toned or pink/peach toned colors. The other benefit is these colors will work on all skin tones – lightest to darkest. To create a soft line place your brush at the hair line and brush forward, blend upward around the apples of the cheeks. It is important to not allow blush to dip below the lip line.

9) MISTAKE: Going glitter overboard. WHY? Glitter can be very distracting to the audience and/or judges when it is on the lips, the eyes, the cheeks, the hair, the body, and a costume.

FIX IT: Choose one part of the face to use glitter on. You could choose a red glitter lip or a striking iridescent white to accent your cheekbones or eyelids. Pick ONE part of the body not all of them!

10) MISTAKE: Needing more makeup. WHY? Because of the strength of stage lights and the distance from the performer to the audience, the facial features tend to lose their dimension. Facial features “flatten” out when you don’t have enough makeup on.

FIX IT: Again, just because you saw the look on a dancer on TV, does not mean it is appropriate for stage. Because of the intensity of the stage lighting, a “natural look” NEEDS makeup to look natural on stage. Your makeup should be dark enough that we see your facial features easily to 8th-10th row of the theatre.

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